08/11/06 Nothing happening
The above title sums it up. I haven't had any time to work on it for over a month. If anything happens
I'll post it here!
06/26/06 Moving ahead with the engine
This weekend we finally did the valve adjustments and tried to turn the engine over with the starter. That
went fine except we couldn't get oil up to the rocker assembly. I'm guessing now that the special bolt I bought
from Nissan either isn't installed in the right place or it doesn't have the oil passageway like the original
has. I will check this bolt ASAP and hopefully I'll figure out the problem. Also still haven't torqued the main
and I can't forget to set the distributor in the right place (I just dropped it in to fill the hole for now). But
anyway it's some progress and if I can get my friend back over to help this weekend we may be able to start her up
assuming I can figure out the oil problem first.
06/14/06 How bout a pic
It's been awhile since I've posted a pic so here's where I am now (below). Battery is disconnected
and spark plugs aren't hooked up but besides that I think it's all there.
coming together
06/14/06 Long time with no updates!
Once again, I haven't had much time to work on the car with the baby and all but I've done a little
since my last update. I think I am ready for my friend to stop by to start her up whenever
he can. Pretty much everything is done except brake and clutch fluids, torque main, adjust valves
and fill the oil. I finally got all the fuel system setup (in/out, overflow routing etc). Also
the PCV system is setup, air filters are in and "charged" and the coolant is filled. Battery in in
and I measured that it still have over 12V so I didn't bother to have it charged at the parts store.
If I have trouble we can just jump it I guess. Also got new plugs. The choke is also installed but
I haven't trimmed the choke lines to fit but besides that it's there. Looking forward to the first crank
up whenever that will be.
03/27/06 Getting closer
I haven't had much time lately with the new baby but anyway this weekend I spent a little time
working on the 210. I got most of the electrical hooked back up and some other odds and ends.
Here's a list of what still hasn't been done: torque main crank bolt, charge/replace battery,
fill/bleed brake fluid, fill oil, install slave cylinder, replace spark plugs, connect coil/distributor,
hook up breather/pcv/intake vac (not sure how this hooks up!), adjust valves (not sure how to
do this!), fill tranny fluid, install exhaust/muffler, install choke cable, install horn (replace),
drain fuel tank and add new fuel, install alt drive belt and tighten mounting bolts,
maybe a few more misc things. Daylight savings time starts
next week so that may help me get some done in the evenings.
2/18/06 2/10 surprise
Well the baby came a little earlier than expected. She arrived on Feb 10 so with that
birthday she's obviously gonna love my 210! But anwyay as far as the project, I doubt
I'll have much time for a little while. Maybe when we get into our routine but this is
a first for us so I have no idea when that will be. I'll keep updating anyway. Here's a
little peek at Hana.
210 baby
01/02/06 Ack! no progress!
Well almost no progress anyway. I've put the fenders, bumper, airdam and hood back on. And the head and carbs are mounted.
I've fitted a 240Z fuel rail to supply fuel to the new carbs but still haven't connected them all the way back to the
fuel pump and return lines. I think it'll look nice when it's done though. I bought a pair of filters on ebay and
found some filter sheets made by UNI that I'll cut to fit (2 layers, coarse and fine sheets). I still need to get the
stub stacks from aptfast.com. But my primary goal for now is to get enough done to just turn on the engine so it doesn't
rust up internally if it hasn't already. I think I coated everything with at least a coat of WD-40 so it should be OK for
a long time but still I hate to have it sitting out with oil coating the interior. I made up a to-do list but here's a
shortened version that I need just to turn on the engine:
- fit fuel pump inlet from old pump to new so it points the right direction
- connect up fuel pump to fuel rail, fuel source/filter and fuel return line
- finish reconnecting wiring in engine bay
- charge or replace battery
- torque main crank bolt (DON'T FORGET!)
- mount fan and fan belt
- install spark plugs and cables
- and before I can drive, need to do brakes, fill tranny, mount slave cylinder, install stick shift, connect drive shaft
to diff etc...
So not really a lot to do, I just don't have much time to do it with the baby on the way (2 months!) Of course once all that's
done it'll probaby cost me $200+ to get the exhaust system installed with a new muffler and I probably won't have money
for that for awhile, but hopefully I can take it for a spin around the block without a muffler just to give it a try :) Sorry for
the lack of pics - I have some but just haven't uploaded them yet. BTW I did finish the valve cover but it looks like crap.
I sprayed the POR-15 clear coat and it ended up with lots or runs and bubble, probably mainly due to my lack of painting
experience. It'll have to work for awhile till I can get another one or re-do this one. I think I'll just go with hi-temp
paint next time.
11/21/05 Engine back in the car
This weekend a friend came by and helped me get the block and transmission back in the car. So at least that's
a little progress. I'm still far from getting it running again. Considering I can only spend a little time each
week it'll probably still be awhile. I'll try to get some pictures soon.
10/23/05 Delays and change of plans (again...)
A problem has cased a slight delay and change of plans for my car. I broke a bone in my foot a few weeks ago
and now have to have surgery to repair or remove the broken piece. So I've been off my feet at times recently and
will need at least a week or 2 to recover from the operation (planned for this Thursday). So besides just slowing
me down physically it's also going to take a toll on my budget. So most likely instead of going ahead with the
dual SU installation I'll just put my original carb setup back on the car for now, mainly because it's cheaper to
do. TO install the setup I need to pay for several things at the same time including new air filters and stub stacks,
a new exhaust system to fit with the new header, some hardware for building up the gas supply (probably with pressure
gauge) and probably a few more things I haven't figured out yet. Those parts alone that I've listed will run me a few hundred
bucks and I just don't have it right now. SO...... like I said most likely the old setup will go on the rebuilt engine
just so I can drive it to keep the block from rusting. I think at this point the block is ready to go in - so as soon
as I'm fully back on my feet I'll get that done and finish reassembly.
10/9/05 Putting engine bay parts back in
I had some time this weekend to work on reassembly. I got all of the masking tape off (i think) and started
putting everything back in. This coming weekend I shoudl be able to finish placing and securing the wiring
harness and possibly start mounting the flywheel, clutch and tranny - if I can figure out a way to get
the engine off the stand and set it up somewhere where I can work on it. I"d prefer to put the engine
and tranny in together instead of set the engine and put the tranny on under the car. Anyway here's a pic
of progress from Saturday.
reassembly
10/3/05 Finally something is happening!
I finally got he engine bay painted this weekend. FIrst I tried a test panel myself and it came out OK
except there is a little orange peel texture. SO I hired a "pro" to do the engine bay for me. It turns out
what he did looks worse than what I did on my test panel. I think he laid it on too thick - mayb ehe's not
used to acryllic enamels or something I don't know. Another problem is the color isn't what I expected at all.
It's 305 Light Blue Metallic and the paint chip from the brochure and vintage photos is much lighter than mine.
I'm not sure if the mixture was wrong or I didn't stir the paint enough or what. But anwyay, I've got to
live with it the way it is. I don't have the time or energy to re-do it right now. Also last month I got the
engine back. I'm starting to put it back together. The shop put the short block together so I'm now putting
on the covers and external parts before I can put it back in. Also since I just finished painting the engine
bay I've got to get it all built back up too. So I'll be busy for the next couple of months trying to put it
all back together (hopefully not more than 2 months...)
painted engine bay and underside of hood
9/5/05 Some updates from the holiday weekend
There were a couple of new developments this weekend. I got my rebuilt block back and I finished priming the
bare metal areas of the engine bay. Now I just need to finish sanding for the real primer and final
paint.
paint progress
rebuilt block
8/22/05 Some pics
Here's a pic of the front end after spraying the bare metal parts with a self etching primer.
front end
The only thing I really need to give special attention to is the driver's side frame rail and the area
on the firewall and shock tower that has surface rust. I still haven't decided if I'll POR-15 that area
or just spray with the etching primer.
8/22/05 Some pics
Here are a few pictures I took this evening. I wish I'd had the camera during the
painting process to show the various steps but I didn't.
Here are a few pics:
battery tray before
battery tray after POR-15
finished oil pan
prepping front end for paint
crossmember looks good cleaned up
8/22/05 Moving along now
Well there's been some progress since the last update.
ENGINE REBUILD: I did receive the pistons and ended up removing about 1.5mm to bring the compression up
a little over stock. The block was also decked reducing the piston/block clearance from .0012" to .0007".
According to my calculation the compression should be up at around 8.8:1 vs stock compression of 8.5:1. This
calculation was done assuming that my original configuration was an 8.5:1 setup. So at this point the shop
has the pistons and right now it's all being balanced. Someone lost the flywheel bolts (not sure if it was me
or the shop) so I've had to order a new set of those from Nissan. So basically the rebuild will be on hold until
the shop has those - they're required to balance the engine. Once I've got the bolts I'm guessing it'll only be a
couple of weeks for them to finish balancing and reassemble the block. So that means I need to get my repaint moving...
PAINT PREP: I've made some progress here. I've bought the paint and supplies needed to paint the engine bay. I've also
cleaned most of it with paint thinner and sand paper. The battery tray area was rusted so I sanded it down and painted
it with POR-15 and applied their special primer to make it ready for paint. It looks pretty good. I'm trying to decide if
I should do the same thing around the brake MC because brake fluid tends to eat through Acryllic Enamel paint so the extra
protection might be a good idea. The original paint was completely eaten through from fluid spills. If I do decide to do it
that'll take another full weekend or so. Then I'll be ready to start the finish sanding, prime and paint. Oh also while
I was painting the battery tray I painted my oil pan with POR-15 and their Chassis Coat Black top paint. It doesn't look
that good because I used a brush but oh well, it is functional at least. I don't have a camera right now so sorry no pics!
7/25/05 Slow moving
It has been about a month since my last update and unfortunately not much has changed. We've had real
difficulty finding the right pistons for my car. My original ones had 1mm deep dish but the most shallow
dish I could find on aftermarket ones is 2.2mm. Just that extra dish alone will drop the compression from
stock 8.5 to around 8.2 or worse. So we are going to have to deck the block. I'm not too excited about
that but I don't really see any alternative besides custom pistons ($600 or so...) But anyway, the
overbore was done late last week and Marty (engine rebuilder) is goign to check the piston/block deck
clearance early this week to let me know if they can deck it enough to pull the compression back up.
Besides that I've picked up a few more misc parts on ebay for my car: new brake master cylinder and clutch
master and slave cylinders. Also new engine mounts for when it's ready to go back in. I haven't done
much work lately but I'm still slowly prepping the engine bay to be painted (which I need to do VERY soon). I'll
post more updates on that as they occur.
6/27/05 June update
The machine shop is going a little slower than expected but it is slowly moving. They've done their
initial checkout and told me it needs oversized pistons and bearings. I've decided to let them buy the
parts though I'm starting to regret that. That was basically to speed up the process but they are a
little more expensive than it would be for me to buy the parts myself and I don't think they're too
picky about what brands they use. I hope they don't stick a lot of crap parts in my engine. I've also
decided to let them reassemble the block. So for now it's all in their hands. I just dropped off the cam
and the parts they need to reassemble and balance this weekend. They should make good progress this week
when the rest of the parts their waiting for come in.
I've had a couple of other things to keep me busy. First I decided to try cleaning up the rocker cover
myself. I started by cleaning it up, then removed the paint with stripper and started sanding the oxidation
and other spots with 150 grit paper. I sanded up to 1000 grit and started buffing with Tripoli. I'm not too
excited about the way it's coming out but it's better than it was. The problem is I don't really have the
right tools to do it properly and I don't want to spend any more money or too much more time on it. There's
a pic below showing a couple of steps in the process. It looks much better in the picture than it does up
close :)
And finally I've been doing some reading on how to paint my engine bay and periodically continue to prep
the bay for paint. I've finally finished removing everything I can from the engine bay. Now I need to start
sanding and masking off everything. I'm not far from being ready to actually do the painting. Scary.
See pic below for where I am from this weekend.
Here are a few pics:
rocker cover
- engine bay
6/6/05 Good progress over the weekend
During the last week I was able to completely disassemble the engine and took the parts to the
machine shop. Early this week they will inspect everything and let me know what parts I need
to buy. I haven't bought anything yet because I don't know if the pistons or any of the bearings
need to be oversized or not. It turns out that shop can also balance the bottom end so I won't have
to take it to Arlington to have it done. Also for $150 they will reassemble the bottom end -
I haven't decided if I want to them to do that or not. For one thing moving the reassembled block
around would not be easy as it's much heavier than any of the individual. But anyway I haven't decided
on that yet.
Also the cam has been packed up and is ready to send to Isky - probably will ship tonight. That should
be back in about 2 weeks I think. So for now I'm continuing to break down the engine bay in preparation for
new paint. Yesterday I removed the front bumper, grille and lights. There is still more stuff in the actual
engine bay area that needs to be removed or moved to make cleaning and painting easier. The idea is to do
the engine bay area while the engine is out and it's easy to do right, and do the rest of
the car sometime down the road when I can pay to have it done right. Of course I still
have no idea how I'm going to get it painted. I'd like to try it myself just to get some experience doing
it but I have no idea how to start. I guess some research would be in order.
Here are a few pics: bottom end - old pistons out - crank - front end stripped
5/31/05 Engine is out
First I tried lifting the engine out with a chain and a 4x4 piece of wood that that was a little too dangerous for
me so I finally tracked down an engine hoist I could borrow. It turns out a member of the ZCOT who is borrowing
my 240Z rotisserie owns a hoist so I'll probably be able to borrow that whenever I need it. He's not to far away
either so that helps. So anyway the engine is out and mounted to the engine stand. At this point I'm just cleaning up
the outside but I'll probably start to disassemble it fairly soon. First step is to take the block to the machine shop
to be inspected and have the cylinders honed or rebored as required. Then I have to get new pistons and bearings and
take the bottom end to be balanced. At the same time the cam will be sent to possibly Isky to be reground. Then I guess
that's it - ready to reassemble ??? Well anyway, here are a couple of pics: engine 1 - engine 2
5/23/05 Ready...
The engine is now ready to come out. I just need someone to help me lift it. My wife tried
to help but that didn't work. Anyway, sometime this week or this weekend I'll get someone
to give me a hand - not sure who yet. Can't wait...
5/10/05 Couple of pic
It's been awhile since I've posted any pics so here are a couple from last night. Here's the engine almost ready to come out. Just need to disconnect a few more
things and remove the tranny (and get an engine stand). And here's just another shot of the car up on stands and ramps. It's up about 16", plenty to get underneath.
5/4/05 Progress slow as usual
I still haven't pulled the engine yet but I'm slowly getting there. As usual home improvement projects are keeping me
busy. So far I've gathered together a few parts - timing gear/chain set, oil pump, and remanufactured clutch. Last weekend
I went out to a junk yard in Alvarado to pick up what was supposed to be a very good condition right fender, but
when I got there it ended up having a crunch at the bottom front so I left it. But I did pick up a very nice hood
for a good price and got a replacement combination switch (my high beam switch was broken). I didn't really have to
get the hood but mine has a hole for an emblem and moderate hail damage so I think it was worth it not to have
to repair that when I repaint. As for progress on the car, so far I've got it jacked
up and I've removed the gear shifter, drive shaft and electrical
connections to the tranny. Unfortunately the tranny fluid drain plug is stuck so I can't drain it so the fluid will
just pour out when I remove it. But anyway, now I need to remove the slave cylinder and I think at that point I'll
be ready to remove the tranny. The reason I'm removing it is so the engine will be light enough to lift out by hand
(with a little help). Otherwise I'll have to rent a hoist which I really don't want to do. So who knows if the rain
stops I may be able to get to that point in the next week or so - if I can find the time that is.
Oh I did find a shop that will balance my bottom end for about $200. Still looking for a good machine shop for the rest.
3/4/05 Parts
Well right now I'm gathering parts for an engine rebuild. Might as well do it now before I put the head back on.
I'll probably get a mild cam grind done by Isky. They've been around for a long time and I've heard lots of
good things about them. I was considering an overbore but I've pretty much been convinced that it's a bad idea
unless the cylinders are in really bad shape. The slight increase in power isn't worth the cost and risk
to engine damage. So as $$ allows I'll get the parts (bearings, seals, timing set, rings etc) and in the meantime
if I can find time I'll pull the engine and disassemble it. Also need to find a good machine shop to clean the engine,
hone the bores and balance the bottom end.
1/31/05 New parts...
I found a set of original Nissan louvers for my hatchback. My car originally had a set installed and
this part fit the mounting holes perfectly. It came from oldcarandtruckparts.com - Charlie gave me a
great price considering the condition of the part (new with minor scratches). Anyway, I love the look
of original vintage parts like this. Louvers really have that 70's look. Well here's a pic of the
louvers on the car and a pic of the original instruction and parts bag that came with it.
Louvers -
Instructions
1/3/05 Change of plans again
Well after some thinking I decided to save the Z carbs for my Z and use a proper set of 38mm carbs
on the 210. The Z carbs don't bolt up just right, they're heavier (possibly straining the manifold)
and I just don't know if they'll be sensitive enough for my small engine. SO anyway I picked up a set of
SSS 38mm carbs on Ebay fairly cheap, but they're in bad condition. I'm going to see if Z Therapy can
do a trade for a decent price and "hook me up" on the linkage. Also over the holiday I received my header
from DatRats and the intake I bought from a guy in Oz. I discovered that the balance tube on the intake
has been welded up and I dont' know yet how that'll affect performance. HOpefully it won't be a killer.
I guess I could always open the tube back up but it may be ugly. Well here are a few pics.
Cool DatRats logo on mailer -
New header and SU intake manifold -
SSS carbs on SU intake
12/13/04 Found my Z carbs
I went for a dig through my Z storage this weekend and found my torque wrench (which
I need to install my head) and my 240Z carbs. It turns out those carbs are actually
Z Therapy carbs. The PO of my Z said they were but I didn't believe him, but I found the
Z Therapy logo cut into a part on each carb. So it'll save me some $$ to use them
on my 210. Here's a pic of them: Z Therapy carbs
12/2/04 Head finished - now what....
Well the head work is all done. It looks great. Now I just need to figure out what to do with it.
I'm trying to get parts together to do a dual SU carb swap (similar to the GX setup). The problem is you
can't get the manifold here in the US - they're pretty much all in Oz. I've found one for sale and have
agreed to purchase it but I'm having trouble getting in contact with the seller now. At the same time I'm
going to buy a header from datrats.com.
Errol has one in stock but he's also agreed to pick up the manifold for me and ship it with the header, so
that's also on hold until I get hold of the guy with the manifold. Once that's all settled I'll have to
look for a set of carbs. I'll probably get real SU carbs (used on MGB's) because the Datsun Hitachi's are
very hard to find. BUt that means I'll probably have to make a custom linkage for it to work. Won't that be
fun? So anyway, I'm still debating whether or not to reassemble the engine with my current setup or wait
until I get the dual SU thing settled. In any case, here are a few pics of the finished head:
Head1
Head2
Head3
11/08/04 Blown head gasket!
It's been awhile since my last update, but not so much because nothing is happening. Actually a couple of weeks
ago I blew the headgasket when the engine overheated. I guess the coolant was low. So anyway, this weekend
I finally got around to pulling the head to check it out. Turns out there was a major leak at the rear cylinder.
So I'm trying to decide what to do next. Maybe now would be a good time for a swap? :) Well anyway, here are
a couple of pics of the head and block: Head
Block
9/21/04 Little fix
I finally replaced the side pop-out window that had the broken hinges. Fairly simple to do now that
I have a rivet tool. Hopefully I won't have so much water leaking in when it rains. When I first
bought the car the rear floorboards were flooded, probably due to this leaky window letting rain in
for who know how long - maybe years.
9/13/04 Weekend maintenance
This weekend I decided to flush my engine coolant. The coolant had a nice rusty brown color to it - obviously a
previous owner didn't use antifreeze at some point. But anyway, to flush it I had to drain the coolant, remove
the thermostat and disconnect the connection at the back of the block that goes to the heater core. I then ran the
water in through that back hole to reverse flush the radiator. It took awhile but the water finally
became clear, or at least more clear than it was. I found that the thermostat was actually stuck open, so I replaced
that too. (By the way that explains why the car was running so cold on cold days. I hadn't really thought
much of it.) When I went to refill the coolant I forgot to drain the block of the water I used to flush it.
Not really a big deal, it just means my water:coolant ratio is off somewhat. At some point I'll drain some of the
mixture and add enough coolant to get the ratio back up. While I was doing that I also replaced the valve cover
gasket. Here's a pic of the
valves. I didn't really know what to inspect or look for there so I just put the cover back on and that was it.
Oh yeah, last night I started peeling off the ghetto style tint on the windows. The driver's side is done and half
of the rear window. I need some naptha to remove the glue on the hatch because I'm afraid scraping it with
the razor will take off the heater stripes - which don't work now anyway but who knows maybe I'll figure that out
at some point. So far the cleaned windows look VERY nice. And I can actually see!! I'll post a pic when it's
all done. It looks like a different car.
8/30/04 New pic
Once again nothing major is going on. I did buy a few parts for my car though including a replacement interior
dome light cover (mine was missing), a new steering column cover (mine was repainted the wrong color), and a new
PS quarter window because the hinges on mine are broken. Not sure when I'll get around to installing that. Here's
another pic of my car that I took this morning in the parking lot at work. It's much better than the ones above.
'79 Datsun 210 Hatchback. Notice the "D" center caps I got recently.
They're from a '79 310 and they fit perfectly. Much better than the "Z" caps I had before.
Upcoming stuff to do: replace the anti-dieseling
valve on the carb to kill the run-on in hot weather, replace the leaky window mentioned above, still need to replace
the leaky valve-cover seal, and still need to go through the engine/carb tune-up procedure to optimize the settings.
I did get 29mpg last week so it's much improved over the <20mpg I was getting with the old carb setup.
8/16/04 Interior stuff
Not much happening now. I'm driving the car daily now and not having any problems right now.
I've installed the radio which sounds like complete junk of course but it's better than nothing.
Here's a pic of the install and a few more details. Hehehe...
If I have free time someday I'll build a couple of speaker pods so the speakers have firmer mounting
surfaces. The frequency response and effective volume increases a LOT when speakers are securely mounted.
But that's fairly low on my list of priorities right now.
8/7/04 No problem!
I figured out the electrical problems I was having. I noticed that the fuse blew after
going into 4th gear and I remembered from the wiring diagrams that there is a
top gear switch in the transmission. Sure enough that switch was also on this circuit.
That switch grounds a solenoid that cuts off the vacuum line to the distributor advance
(or something like that) so I assume that either the switch or solenoid are faulty.
So anyway I just disconnected the electrical connections at the tranny switch and the
problem is now gone. Actually I think that solenoid isn't used
anymore anyway because all of the vac lines to it are blocked off, so it's not going
to change anything to have it disconnected. So for now there aren't any serious problems
with the car right now that I know of, so I can actually drive it for awhile!! I guess that's
not completely true as I noticed that there's a lot of water on the pass side rear floor board.
I think the rear side window seal is bad - the hinges on it are broken so it doesn't close all
the way. Not a real big deal but I will be keeping my eyes open for a parts source on the web
somewhere. Oh and the radio will go in this week sometime - 3$ head unit and 12$ speakers.
hehehe...
8/5/04 Electrical problems...
Well I installed the new carb last weekend but I'm still having
problems. The anti-diesel solenoid and auto choke were both not
working. I finally traced it back to a blown fuse (duh!), replaced the
fuse and it worked fine for awhile, but of course the fuse eventually
blew again. So now I've got to trace down this problem. It's a 10amp
fuse - I checked the current draw through that fuse yesterday and it's
only 1 to 2 amps with the car idling, so something must be happening
when the car is driving or moving. I guess it could be a bare wire
somewhere that's shorting when the car is in motion - seems to happen
when I stop actually. So tonight I'll set the meter up on the dash and
drive around to see if I can figure what's making it blow. I've got
the wiring diagrams so I should be able to figure something out.
7/30/04 New parts
Just received my new (remanufactured) carburetor
which I hope to install this weekend. Doens't look like it'll be
too difficult. Need to flush the
gas line, replace the fuel filter and do a few more things.
Also I've got a brand new radio coming
from ebay. Check out this awesome piece of technology.
All that for $3! Now I just need some $5 speakers and I'm all set.
Well actually that's not true,
I've also got a replacement antenna on the way so that should finish
off the system. But that can
wait till I'm back on the road.
7/22/04 What's going on?
Here's a quick summary of what's going on with my car now. First off I
had to replace a couple of tires so I replaced the fronts with slightly
smaller ones to fix the rubbing problem. I changed the oil, brake pads,
added some coolant and checked other fluid levels, bought a shift knob and
a few manuals. So I've been driving for a little while and I've noticed
that it runs very rough and idles high. So my coworker helped me track
down the vac leak and it turns out the carb has a bad leak - either a
crack or bad seal. Also the idle adjust has no effect and the auto-choke
is toasted. So I think I'll spend a couple hundred bucks for a fully
rebuilt carb and ditch this one. Hopefully that'll solve a lot of my
problems. Also I'm getting some chatter in 1st gear but I've learned how
to get around that while driving. But who knows I may be in for a new
clutch and pressure plate sometime in the future. But I guess these
things are expected for an old car - especially when someone like me buys
it and doesn't know exactly how it's supposed to drive or sound etc.
